We don’t like to play favourites with our footwear, but it’s tough to deny that a great pair of leather boots is usually pretty high on our lists. Whether thigh-skimming or knee-high, the best styles have the power to elevate even the most understated look.

That is, of course, as long as the boots in question are looking their absolute best. Because while it’s true that a gorgeous pair of boots can instantly finish a look, it’s also true that a dirty, dried-out pair can easily kill it, too.

To that end, it’s essential to know how to clean leather boots correctly. Not only will doing so ensure they look great now—but also for years to come. “Regular maintenance is the key to preserving their luxurious finish and extending their lifespan,” explains footwear design veteran Colin Robertson, creative director at Donald Pliner. “Consistent care will keep them looking new.”

Not sure where to start? Read on for expert tips on how to clean leather boots, plus advice on how to keep your favorite pairs in pristine condition this season and beyond.

How often should I clean leather boots?

While leather may seem tough, it still requires regular care—it’s a natural material, after all. That said, excessive handling could cause them to become worn out quicker than you’d probably like. The sweet spot, experts say, is to clean them every two to five wears.

However, you may need to clean them more often, depending on the conditions they encounter while out and about. “Always clean immediately if they get muddy, wet, or stained,” Georgina Estruch, product developer at Alohas, advises.

How to clean leather boots

Luckily, leather is generally easier to care for than fabric or suede. The first step? Removing any surface debris and removing the laces, if your boots have them. Then, “gently brush off any visible surface dirt with a soft brush or dry cloth,” Robertson recommends.

For general cleaning, use a clean, damp cloth to softly wipe down the boots using gentle, circular motions. “Avoid soaking the leather, as excessive moisture can damage its natural texture,” Robertson says. For a deeper clean, you can also try using mild dish soap, saddle soap, or a leather cleaner. The process is similar: “Dampen a cloth with the soapy water and wipe the boots,” Estruch says.

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Then, pat the boots dry with a clean towel by air drying them away from direct heat. Estruch also recommends using a leather conditioner “to keep them supple.” (More on that below.)

How to remove water stains

To remove stains from leather boots, gently clean the affected area with a damp cloth and mild soap, but make sure not to soak the leather. “Remember, it’s always best to pre-test any treatment on a small, inconspicuous area first,” Robertson says. “Then, allow the boots to dry completely, and condition to restore the leather’s natural oils and appearance.”

How to remove salt stains

To remove salt stains, try using a white vinegar solution. “Mix equal parts water and white vinegar, apply with a cloth, and gently blot the mark until it fades,” Estruch recommends. If the stain is still there after the leather air dries, repeat the process again.

How to remove scuff marks

Gently rub scuff marks out with a clean, dry cloth or an eraser designed for leather. “You can use a white pencil eraser to gently rub away the scuff marks,” Estruch says. You can also use a magic eraser to gently buff the stain out. Or, try using the white vinegar method outlined above.

How to remove grease stains

Ah, the dreaded grease stain. It can happen to the best of us—and, of course, to the best leather boots. Never fear: there are ways to eliminate those at home, too.

One good trick? Using something to absorb the stain. “Sprinkle cornstarch or talcum powder on the grease stain and let it sit overnight,” Estruch advises. “Then, brush it off in the morning; the powder should have absorbed the grease.”

If that doesn’t work, both Estruch and Robertson advise using a leather cleaner specifically designed to remove grease. “Grease stains require a bit more care,” Robertson warns. “When in doubt, take your favorite boots to a trusted shoe cobbler—sometimes our shoes deserve a spa day.”

How to remove ink stains

Ink stains can also be tricky to remove. If the ink stain is fresh, you can try dipping a cotton swab or Q-tip in non-acetone nail polish remover or rubbing alcohol and blotting gently, being careful not to soak the leather. If the ink stain is old, heed Robertson’s advice above and visit a professional.

How to condition leather boots

Leather conditioners come in the form of oils, creams, or waxes and are meant to restore the leather’s natural oils and should be used after cleaning, spot-treating, and drying. “It keeps the leather soft and prevents it from drying out,” Estruch explains.

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To condition your leather boots, use a small amount of your preferred leather conditioner on clean, dry leather. If the leather is especially rigid, you can try gently warming your boots by placing them in the sun or using a hair dryer on low, indirect heat. (Just remember not to apply heat to damp or wet leather shoes—always wait until the leather is completely dry, first.) Then, work the conditioner into the leather with a cloth using circular motions. Let it absorb for a few hours or overnight.

“If your boots are polished leather, use a good quality cream or wax polish that matches the color of your boots,” advises Estruch. “Apply it with a soft cloth or brush, let it dry for a few minutes, and then buff to a shine.”

How to care for leather boots so they last

Aside from regular cleaning and conditioning, there are a few easy things you can do to ensure your leather boots last. First, keep your boots as dry as possible. “If they get wet, let them dry naturally, away from direct heat sources which can dry out and crack the leather,” Estruch says. When not wearing your leather boots, use cedar boot trees to help maintain the shape and prevent your boots from creasing or getting crushed. “Store your boots in a cool, dry place,” Estruch says. “Use dust bags or shoe boxes to protect them from dust and light.”

Although it may be tempting, try not to wear the same pair of boots day in and day out. “Let your boots rest between wears to allow the leather to breathe, ensuring they stand the test of time with style and grace,” Robertson says.

And don’t neglect the two biggest shoe-care basics: regular maintenance and the phone number of a trusted cobbler. “A quick shine sponge is a quick and easy way to keep your leather boots looking good throughout boot season,” Robertson says. While “repairing loose stitching, worn soles, or damage promptly will prevent further deterioration,” Estruch adds.

Original article appeared on Vogue US